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The balanced weaves are the most common. Unbalanced weaves, or rib weaves, and another variation, basket weaves, will be discussed later. It is helpful to classify balanced plain weaves by weight as light, medium, or heavy. Lightweight Plain Weave Fabrics. Lightweight plain-weave fabrics may be light in weight because they have either a low fabric count or are constructed of fine yarns and are usually sheer. The following low-fabric-count balanced plain weaves have somewhat specialized uses.
1. Cheesecloth is open weave soft fabric originally used in producing cheese, serving as a wrapper or strainer for curds.
2. Crinoline and buckram are heavily sized to serve as stiffening fabrics.
3. Gauze, with a higher count than cheesecloth, is used in theatrical costumesand medical dressings, as well as for blouses and dresses.
The following are high-count balanced plain weaves with fine yarns.
• Chiffon is made from fine, highly twisted filament yarns. Because of the tightly twisted crepe yarns, chiffon has excellent drape, and although it is delicate in appearance, it is relatively durable. Sheer evening dresses, blouses, lingerie, and other dressy apparel are constructed from the fabric.
• Ninon, a sheer plain weave of filament yarns, is often used in sheer curtains and draperies.
• Organdy is a sheer cotton fabric that is given a temporarily or permanently stiffened finish.
• Organza is a stiff sheer fabric made of filament yarns.
• Voile, a soft fabric with somewhat lower fabric count and higher twist yarns, has a distinctive two-ply warp and ooddrapability. Medium- Weight Plain- Weave Fabrics. Medium weight balanced plain weaves usually have fairly high fabric counts, contain medium-weight yarns (12 to 29 tex), and are opaque. Distinguishing characteristics may be design, color, finish, or fabric count.
1. Calico is a closely woven fabric with a small printed design.
2. Chambray fabrics have colored warp yarns and white filling yarns that produce a heather appearance. Some contemporary chambrays may have warp and filling yarns of different colors.
3. Chintz is a fabric printed with large designs that is often given a polished or glazed finish. Solid color glazed fabrics are called polished cotton.
4. Gingham is a woven check or plaid design made with yarns of different colors.
5. Muslin, generally woven from cotton or cotton blends, is made in both heavily sized, bleached qualities and in better grades for sheets and pillow cases. Muslin sheets are not combed and have a lower count (128 to 140 total yarns per inch) than do percale sheets.
6. Percale, a closely woven, plain weave of cotton or blended fibers, is made from yarns of moderate twist. Percale yard goods are generally carded, but percale sheets are finer and more luxurious in feel and are made of combed yarns.
Percale sheets have a count of 180 to 200 yarns (warp plus filling) per inch.
Heavyweight Plain- Weave Fabrics. The following are common heavyweight plain weave fabrics.
1. Butcher linen is a plain, stiff, white fabric made from heavy yarn.
2. Crash is made from thick and thin yarns, giving the fabric a nubby look.
3. Homespun is a furnishing fabric made with irregular yarns to resemble hand spun and hand-woven fabrics.
4. Osnaburg is made of low-quality cotton for industrial use and in interior fabrics for curtains and upholstered furniture.
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