Woven Effects

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Hand embroidery has been used for many centuries to add decoration to fabrics. With the invention of the automatic loom came the production of looms that would create ornamental effects similar to that of embroidery. 

Clipped or Unclipped Spot Weave 

Embroidery like designs may be achieved through the use of extra warp and extra filling yarns. In the clipped spot weave, either an extra shuttle or an extra set of warp yarns interlace to create a simple woven design. The extra yarns are carried along as a float on the wrong side of the fabric when they do not appear in the design. After the cloth is completed, the long floats may be cut away (clipped) or left uncut (unclipped). 

If clipped, which is the most common practice, the yarns form a characteristic “eyelash” effect. Sometimes these fabrics are used inside out for design interest. 

The durability of the design depends on the closeness of the weave of the fabric into which it is woven. Some domestic dotted Swiss fabric is constructed by the clipped spot weave. This sheer cotton fabric uses small clipped spot yarns in contrasting color to create a dotted surface design. Dotted Swiss may also be made with flocking or with plastic dots, much cheaper options. 

Interwoven, or Double-Cloth, Fabrics 

Interwoven fabrics are also called double-cloth fabrics. They are made with three, four, or five sets of yarns.

Double-faced fabrics are made with three sets of yarns. Woven either from two sets of warp yarns and one filling yarn or from two sets of filling yarns and one warp yarn, the effect of the weave is to produce the same appearance on both sides of the fabric. Some blankets and double-faced satins are examples of fabrics that are woven in this way. Fabrics made with four sets of yarns use two sets of warp yarns and two sets offilling yarns. 

Yarns from both layers move back and forth from one layer to another, as required by the design. In some areas the two fabrics are totally separated; in others, all four sets of yarns are interwoven. The two layers of these fabrics cannot be separated without destroying the fabric. The cut edge of the fabric will show small “pockets” where fabric layers are separate. The pocket boundaries are the point at which yarn sets interchange from one side of the fabric to the other. 

Fabrics with five sets of yarns are produced in the same way as double-woven pile fabrics. Two separate fabric layers are constructed. Extra yarns travel back and forth between the two layers to hold them together. These fabrics are often reversible, with one side being of one color and one side of another color. If the connecting yarn is cut, the two segments of the fabric can be separated into two individual pieces of cloth 

Triaxally Woven Fabrics 

Research and development of new fabric construction is constantly in progress. There is, however, another method of constructing fabrics that is closely related to traditional weaving, and it is known as triaxial weaving. The term is derived from trimeaningm “three” and axial, meaning “of or pertaining to the axis or center line.” In other words, triaxial fabrics have three axes or center lines. Traditionally, woven fabrics have a biaxial form or two axes, the lengthwise and crosswise axes. 

Triaxial fabrics are usually woven by interlacing two sets of lengthwise yarns with one set of crosswise yarns. Special cams in the loom manipulate the yarns so that the double set of yarns is carried in a diagonal direction. All three sets of yarns interlace. Triaxial weaves are not entirely new. Snowshoes and some forms of basketwork sometimes have been made using a triaxial construction. The major advantage of triaxial weaving is in its stability against stretching not only in the length and crosswise directions but also in the bias. Even those biaxial fabrics with good stability in the warp and filling will stretch in the bias direction. Triaxially woven fabrics have high bursting strength resistance and strong resistance to tearing and raveling. Strength is uniform in all directions. 

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Twill fabric | Woven fabric with diagonal line

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Twill Weave: 

Twill weaves produce diagonal lines on the cloth. In twill weave, the filling yarn interlaces more than one warp yarn (but never more than four, as strength would be sacrificed by doing so). On each successive line, or pick, the filling yarn moves the design one step to the right or to the left, thus forming the diagonal. 

Twill fabrics are readily identified by the diagonal lines that the weave creates on the surface of the fabric. Because there are fewer interlacing, the yarns in twill fabrics can be spaced closely together, packed tightly, and held firmly in place. Therefore, twill fabrics are usually strong and durable; they are also supple and drape well. Most twillweave fabrics are made in bottom weight. The compact structure of twill fabrics enables them to shed soil readily, although when soiled they may be difficult to get clean. Depending on their construction, twill fabrics generally show good resistance to abrasion. Twill fabrics are often used for tailored garments, particularly those made of worsted wool yarns. 

The simplest twill weave is created by the warp yarn crossing over two filling yarns, then under one, over two, under one, and so on. In the next row, the sequence begins one yarn down. The area in which one yarn crosses over several yarns in the opposite direction is called a float. 

The lines created by this pattern are called Wales. When the cloth is held in the position in which it was woven, the Wales (diagonal lines) will be seen to run either from the lower left corner to the upper right corner or from the lower right to the upper left. If the diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right, the twill is known as a right-hand twilL About 85 percent of all twill-woven fabrics are right-hand twills (American Fabrics 1980, 325). When the twill runs from the lower right to the upper left, the twill is known as a left-hand twilL (See 

There are a number of types of twill weaves. All use the same principle of crossing more than one yarn at a regular, even progression. Descriptions of twills may be made in terms of the pattern of warp yarns crossing filling yarns. The description of twill weaves is notated as 2/1, 2/2, 3/2, and so on. The first digit refers to the number of filling yarns crossed over by the warp and the second digit to the number of filling yarns the warp passes under before returning to cross the filling again. 

When the crossing is over and under the same number of yarns, the fabric is called an even or even-sided twill. When warps pass over a larger or smaller number of filling yarns than they pass under, the fabric is called an uneven twill 

Even Sided Twill weave

The even-sided twill has the same number of warp and filling yarns showing on the face of the fabric. Figure 15.7 shows how such a weave is achieved in a 2/2 twill. Even-sided twills are reversible unless printed or finished or one side. 

1. Serge is a popular basic twill fabric made from any number of differentfibers. When serge is made from wool, it is often woven from worsted yarns. Serge will take a crease well, but wool serge tends to become shiny with wear. It tailors well. 

2. Flannel, if made of wool, is usually a twill weave with a napped finish. 

3. Plaids or tartan patterns are yarn-dyed even-sided twills. 

4. In a herringbone twill the direction of the twill reverses itself to form a broken diagonal that appears like a series of V’s: herringbone patterns create a decorative effect. Herringbone twills are common in suiting fabrics. 

Filling Faced Twill weave

Filling-faced twills have a predominance of filling yarns on the surface of the fabric. Filling yarns are generally weaker than are warp yarns, so that relatively few filling faced twills are made. 

Twill Angles 

When the face of a twill fabric is examined, the diagonal of the Wales will be seen to move at a more or less steep angle. The steepness of the angle is dependent on two factors in the construction of the fabric: the number of warps yarns per inch of fabric and the number of steps between movement of yarns when they interlace. 

The more warp yarns in the construction, the steeper the angle of the Wales, provided that the number of filling yarns per inch remains the same. This is because the points of interlacing of the yarns will be closer together; thereby the diagonal of the 

Wales will make a steep climb upward. When the steepness of the angle is the result of close spacing of warp yarns, these steeper angles are an indication of good strength. If the angle the wale makes with the filling yarn is about 45 degrees, the fabric is a regular twill Fabrics with higher angles are steep twills, and those with smaller angles are reclining twills.Generally, the interlacing of yarns in twill changes with each filling yarn. There are, however, fabrics in which the interlacing of yarns changes only every two filling yarns or every three filling yarns. The less often the interlacing changes, the steeper the angle of the twill will be.In the left hand twill, the diagonals run upward to the left. In the right hand twill, the lines run upward to the right. 

Herringbone twill weave

A Herringbone weave has vertical stripes of both right and left hand twills. 

Characteristics of Herringbone twill : 

• Strong and Durable fabric. 

• Twill weaves have fewer interlacing than the plain weave, which permits more yarns per inch in the fabric and makes them more stronger, heavier and more durable than plain, rib and basket weave fabrics. The floats are short, so yarn snagging is not a problem. 

• Increased drapablility and resilience than the plain weave. 

• Interesting designs 

• Ex: Denim, tweed, Jean Right-hand twill weave

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Balanced Plain-Weave Woven Fabrics

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The balanced weaves are the most common. Unbalanced weaves, or rib weaves, and another variation, basket weaves, will be discussed later. It is helpful to classify balanced plain weaves by weight as light, medium, or heavy. Lightweight Plain Weave Fabrics. Lightweight plain-weave fabrics may be light in weight because they have either a low fabric count or are constructed of fine yarns and are usually sheer. The following low-fabric-count balanced plain weaves have somewhat specialized uses. 

1. Cheesecloth is open weave soft fabric originally used in producing cheese, serving as a wrapper or strainer for curds. 

2. Crinoline and buckram are heavily sized to serve as stiffening fabrics. 

3. Gauze, with a higher count than cheesecloth, is used in theatrical costumesand medical dressings, as well as for blouses and dresses. 

The following are high-count balanced plain weaves with fine yarns. 

• Chiffon is made from fine, highly twisted filament yarns. Because of the tightly twisted crepe yarns, chiffon has excellent drape, and although it is delicate in appearance, it is relatively durable. Sheer evening dresses, blouses, lingerie, and other dressy apparel are constructed from the fabric. 

• Ninon, a sheer plain weave of filament yarns, is often used in sheer curtains and draperies. 

• Organdy is a sheer cotton fabric that is given a temporarily or permanently stiffened finish. 

• Organza is a stiff sheer fabric made of filament yarns. 

• Voile, a soft fabric with somewhat lower fabric count and higher twist yarns, has a distinctive two-ply warp and ooddrapability. Medium- Weight Plain- Weave Fabrics. Medium weight balanced plain weaves usually have fairly high fabric counts, contain medium-weight yarns (12 to 29 tex), and are opaque. Distinguishing characteristics may be design, color, finish, or fabric count. 

1. Calico is a closely woven fabric with a small printed design. 

2. Chambray fabrics have colored warp yarns and white filling yarns that produce a heather appearance. Some contemporary chambrays may have warp and filling yarns of different colors. 

3. Chintz is a fabric printed with large designs that is often given a polished or glazed finish. Solid color glazed fabrics are called polished cotton. 

4. Gingham is a woven check or plaid design made with yarns of different colors. 

5. Muslin, generally woven from cotton or cotton blends, is made in both heavily sized, bleached qualities and in better grades for sheets and pillow cases. Muslin sheets are not combed and have a lower count (128 to 140 total yarns per inch) than do percale sheets. 

6. Percale, a closely woven, plain weave of cotton or blended fibers, is made from yarns of moderate twist. Percale yard goods are generally carded, but percale sheets are finer and more luxurious in feel and are made of combed yarns. 

Percale sheets have a count of 180 to 200 yarns (warp plus filling) per inch. 

Heavyweight Plain- Weave Fabrics. The following are common heavyweight plain weave fabrics. 

1. Butcher linen is a plain, stiff, white fabric made from heavy yarn. 

2. Crash is made from thick and thin yarns, giving the fabric a nubby look. 

3. Homespun is a furnishing fabric made with irregular yarns to resemble hand spun and hand-woven fabrics. 

4. Osnaburg is made of low-quality cotton for industrial use and in interior fabrics for curtains and upholstered furniture.

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The plain weave | Pattern Design to produce plain woven fabric

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Weave plan is the most popular topic of fabric structure and design in textile engineering courses. The manner in which groups of warp yarns are raised by the loom harnesses to permit the insertion of the filling yarn determines the pattern of the weave, and in large measure the kind of fabric produced. Weave patterns can create varying degrees of durability in fabrics, adding to their usefulness and also to their appearance. In a simple weave construction, consisting of the filling going under one warp and over the next, two harnesses are needed: one to lift the odd-numbered warp yarns, and econd to lift the even-numbered warp yarns. More than two harnesses are required for advanced weaves, and as many as forty for figured weaves. The three basic weaves in common use for the majority of fabrics are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, with some variations. Important constructions are also obtained from the following weaves: pile, double cloth, gauze, swivel, lappet, dobby, and Jacquard. 

The plain weave is the simplest of the weaves and the most common used to produce plain woven fabric. It consists of interlacing warp and filling yarns in a pattern of over one and under one. Imagine a small hand loom with the warp yarns held firmly in place. The filling yarn moves over the first warp yarn, under the second, over the third, under the fourth, and so on. In the next row, the filling yarn goes under the first warp yarn, over the second, under the third, and so on. In the third row, the filling moves over the first warp, under the second, and so on, just as it did in the first row. Plain 

Weave is the simplest and the most used weave.In a plain weave also called single weave, each warp yarn passes alternately over one and then under one filling yarn, for the whole length of the fabric. 

Characteristics of plain weave: 

• Plain weave fabrics are reversible unless some finish is given on one of the sides. 

• Fabrics made of this weave are inexpensive & easily produced. 

• Fabrics of this weave are durable. 

• Ex: Muslin, Organdy, Chiffon, Voile, Cambric etc. 

plain weave structure

The weave can be made with any type of yarn. Made with tightly twisted, single yarns that are placed close together both in the warp and filling, and with the same number of yarns in both directions, the resulting fabric will be a durable, simple, serviceable fabric. If, however, the warp were to be made from a single yarn and the filling from a colorful boucle yarn, a quite different, much more decorative fabric would result. Both are the product of the same, basic, plain weave. 

Plain-weave fabrics are constructed from many fibers and in weights ranging from light to heavy. Weaves may be balanced or unbalanced. Decorative effects can be achieved by using novelty yarns or yarns of different colors. Together with many of these novelty fabrics, a number of standard fabric types are made in the plain weave. In the past these standard fabrics were always constructed from specific fibers. At present suitable manufactured fibers are also woven into many of the standard fabric constructions.

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Weaving Concepts and Terminology for woven fabric

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Weaving Concepts and Terminology 

Woven fabrics, with a few exceptions (such as triaxial fabrics, discussed later in chapter 15) are constructed by interlacing warp (lengthwise) yarns and filling (crosswise) yarns at right angles. In theory, warp and filling yarns should intersect at right angles. When this relationship is perfect, the fabric is said to be on true grain or grain perfect. As a result of the stresses and strains imposed during weaving or finishing, these yarns’ may not lie in the proper position, and when this occurs, the woven fabric is said to be off-grain. The off-grain relationship of warp and filling yarns is described by different terms, depending on how the distortion lies. Warp yarns are usually straight, as they are subject to lengthwise tension throughout the processing of fabrics. 

Filling yarns are usually responsible for the distortion, but they may be distorted in a straight line (skewed) or in a curved line (bowed). Woven and other fabrics can be designated as reversible that is, having the same appearance on both front and back, or not reversible. For fabrics that are not reversible the side to be displayed in the finished textile is termed the face of the fabric and the other side is the back. 

Within the textile and apparel industries, comparative measurement systems are necessary. The concept of yarn size expressed as yarn number was discussed in chapter 13. When dealing with fabrics, comparisons of size are made in terms of the number of yarns per inch or fabric count, the width of the fabric, and the weight of the cloth. 

The closeness of the weave is expressed as the fabric count. With a small magnifying glass calibrated in inches or centimeters, it is possible to count the number of yarns in 1 inch or centimeter of warp and in 1 inch or centimeter of filling. When the number of yarns in the warp is similar to the number of yarns in the filling, the weave is said to be a balanced weave. The fabric count is often expressed in numerical form as 80 X 64, indicating that there are 80 warp yarns per inch by 64 fillings. 

When warp and filling are perfectly balanced, or equal, the count may be stated as 80 square, meaning there are 80 yarns per inch in the warp and 80 yarns per inch in the filling. Alternatively, the number may be doubled, in which case a count of 180 would indicate a count of 90 yarns per inch in each direction. Balanced weave fabrics with the same type of yarns in warp and filling are more durable because the fabric wears evenly in both warp and filling directions. 

Fabric count is usually measured with a calibrated, square magnifying glass called either a linen tester or pick glass. The glass is marked off in fractions of an inch or in centimeters, and the number of warp and filling yarns beside these calibrations can be viewed in magnified form with the glass and counted. In those fabrics where fabric counts are not balanced, the larger number of yarns will usually be found in the warp direction

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Introduction to Woven Fabric Manufacturing Technology

I will discuss about total topics on woven fabric manufacturing technique