Twill fabric | Woven fabric with diagonal line

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Twill Weave: 

Twill weaves produce diagonal lines on the cloth. In twill weave, the filling yarn interlaces more than one warp yarn (but never more than four, as strength would be sacrificed by doing so). On each successive line, or pick, the filling yarn moves the design one step to the right or to the left, thus forming the diagonal. 

Twill fabrics are readily identified by the diagonal lines that the weave creates on the surface of the fabric. Because there are fewer interlacing, the yarns in twill fabrics can be spaced closely together, packed tightly, and held firmly in place. Therefore, twill fabrics are usually strong and durable; they are also supple and drape well. Most twillweave fabrics are made in bottom weight. The compact structure of twill fabrics enables them to shed soil readily, although when soiled they may be difficult to get clean. Depending on their construction, twill fabrics generally show good resistance to abrasion. Twill fabrics are often used for tailored garments, particularly those made of worsted wool yarns. 

The simplest twill weave is created by the warp yarn crossing over two filling yarns, then under one, over two, under one, and so on. In the next row, the sequence begins one yarn down. The area in which one yarn crosses over several yarns in the opposite direction is called a float. 

The lines created by this pattern are called Wales. When the cloth is held in the position in which it was woven, the Wales (diagonal lines) will be seen to run either from the lower left corner to the upper right corner or from the lower right to the upper left. If the diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right, the twill is known as a right-hand twilL About 85 percent of all twill-woven fabrics are right-hand twills (American Fabrics 1980, 325). When the twill runs from the lower right to the upper left, the twill is known as a left-hand twilL (See 

There are a number of types of twill weaves. All use the same principle of crossing more than one yarn at a regular, even progression. Descriptions of twills may be made in terms of the pattern of warp yarns crossing filling yarns. The description of twill weaves is notated as 2/1, 2/2, 3/2, and so on. The first digit refers to the number of filling yarns crossed over by the warp and the second digit to the number of filling yarns the warp passes under before returning to cross the filling again. 

When the crossing is over and under the same number of yarns, the fabric is called an even or even-sided twill. When warps pass over a larger or smaller number of filling yarns than they pass under, the fabric is called an uneven twill 

Even Sided Twill weave

The even-sided twill has the same number of warp and filling yarns showing on the face of the fabric. Figure 15.7 shows how such a weave is achieved in a 2/2 twill. Even-sided twills are reversible unless printed or finished or one side. 

1. Serge is a popular basic twill fabric made from any number of differentfibers. When serge is made from wool, it is often woven from worsted yarns. Serge will take a crease well, but wool serge tends to become shiny with wear. It tailors well. 

2. Flannel, if made of wool, is usually a twill weave with a napped finish. 

3. Plaids or tartan patterns are yarn-dyed even-sided twills. 

4. In a herringbone twill the direction of the twill reverses itself to form a broken diagonal that appears like a series of V’s: herringbone patterns create a decorative effect. Herringbone twills are common in suiting fabrics. 

Filling Faced Twill weave

Filling-faced twills have a predominance of filling yarns on the surface of the fabric. Filling yarns are generally weaker than are warp yarns, so that relatively few filling faced twills are made. 

Twill Angles 

When the face of a twill fabric is examined, the diagonal of the Wales will be seen to move at a more or less steep angle. The steepness of the angle is dependent on two factors in the construction of the fabric: the number of warps yarns per inch of fabric and the number of steps between movement of yarns when they interlace. 

The more warp yarns in the construction, the steeper the angle of the Wales, provided that the number of filling yarns per inch remains the same. This is because the points of interlacing of the yarns will be closer together; thereby the diagonal of the 

Wales will make a steep climb upward. When the steepness of the angle is the result of close spacing of warp yarns, these steeper angles are an indication of good strength. If the angle the wale makes with the filling yarn is about 45 degrees, the fabric is a regular twill Fabrics with higher angles are steep twills, and those with smaller angles are reclining twills.Generally, the interlacing of yarns in twill changes with each filling yarn. There are, however, fabrics in which the interlacing of yarns changes only every two filling yarns or every three filling yarns. The less often the interlacing changes, the steeper the angle of the twill will be.In the left hand twill, the diagonals run upward to the left. In the right hand twill, the lines run upward to the right. 

Herringbone twill weave

A Herringbone weave has vertical stripes of both right and left hand twills. 

Characteristics of Herringbone twill : 

• Strong and Durable fabric. 

• Twill weaves have fewer interlacing than the plain weave, which permits more yarns per inch in the fabric and makes them more stronger, heavier and more durable than plain, rib and basket weave fabrics. The floats are short, so yarn snagging is not a problem. 

• Increased drapablility and resilience than the plain weave. 

• Interesting designs 

• Ex: Denim, tweed, Jean Right-hand twill weave

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Basket Weave; Variation of plain weave fabric

The manner in which groups of warp yarns are raised by the harnesses to permit the insertion of the filling yarn determines the pattern of the weave, and in large measure the kind of fabric produced. Weave patterns can create varying degrees of durability in fabrics, adding to their usefulness and also to their appearance. In a simple weave construction, consisting of the filling going under one warp and over the next, two harnesses are needed: one to lift the odd-numbered warp yarns, and econd to lift the even-numbered warp yarns. More than two harnesses are required for advanced weaves, and as many as forty for figured weaves. The most commonly weave structure used for maximum woven fabrics are plain weave twill weave and satin weave, with some variation. There are some valuable structures and designs are also achieved from the following weaves: gauze, pile, double cloth, lappet, dobby, swivel, and Jacquard. 

Variations of Plain Weave:

Basket weave is one of the most popular woven fabric structure and design. The basket weave, a variation of the plain weave, uses two or more warp and/or two or more filling yarns side by side as one yarn. The resultant cloth is fairly loose in weave. The following are among the more common basket-weave fabrics. Basket Weave is made by having groups of two or more warp yarns simultaneously interlaced with group of two or more (proportionally equal) filling yarn. 2 X 2 basket weave is most common, in this two pairs of warp interlaces two pairs of filling yarn. 

Characteristics of basket weave: 

• It is a decorative weave. 

• Plain weave fabrics are reversible unless some finish is given on one of the sides. 

• Fabric made of this weave is inexpensive & easily produced. 

• Fabrics are not as durable as plain weave. 

• Eg: Monk’s cloth, oxford. 

2*2 Basket Rib weave

Basket weave

1. Monks cloth is a coarse cloth of large yarns. Monk’s cloth uses four or more yarns as one in the weave. Its major uses are in household textiles such as curtains, spreads, and the like. 

2. Hopsacking is made of many different fibers. This fabric simulates the fabrics used in bags for gathering hops. It has a 2-2 or 3-3 basket weave and is commonly used in upholstery. 

3. Modified basket weaves may use double yarns in one direction but not in the other. Oxford cloth, which is made in this way, is a soft fabric, often made of cotton or cotton blends, that is used for shirts. Frequently, it is made with narrow colored stripes in the warp, or a colored warp. 

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4. Duck and canvas are heavy, tightly woven, and very stiff plainweave fabrics made of even yarn for industrial use. They usually have an uneven weave pattern. Because of the tight weave, these fabrics are often used for outdoor purposes. 

b) RIB WEAVE: Ribbed effects are further variations of the plain weave. The rib may be produced in the warp or in the filling by alternating fine yarns with coarse yarns, or single yarns with doubled yarns. 

Characteristics of rib weave:

• Drapes well 

• Durability affected by pronounced ribs • Ex: Faille, Poplin

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Balanced Plain-Weave Woven Fabrics

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The balanced weaves are the most common. Unbalanced weaves, or rib weaves, and another variation, basket weaves, will be discussed later. It is helpful to classify balanced plain weaves by weight as light, medium, or heavy. Lightweight Plain Weave Fabrics. Lightweight plain-weave fabrics may be light in weight because they have either a low fabric count or are constructed of fine yarns and are usually sheer. The following low-fabric-count balanced plain weaves have somewhat specialized uses. 

1. Cheesecloth is open weave soft fabric originally used in producing cheese, serving as a wrapper or strainer for curds. 

2. Crinoline and buckram are heavily sized to serve as stiffening fabrics. 

3. Gauze, with a higher count than cheesecloth, is used in theatrical costumesand medical dressings, as well as for blouses and dresses. 

The following are high-count balanced plain weaves with fine yarns. 

• Chiffon is made from fine, highly twisted filament yarns. Because of the tightly twisted crepe yarns, chiffon has excellent drape, and although it is delicate in appearance, it is relatively durable. Sheer evening dresses, blouses, lingerie, and other dressy apparel are constructed from the fabric. 

• Ninon, a sheer plain weave of filament yarns, is often used in sheer curtains and draperies. 

• Organdy is a sheer cotton fabric that is given a temporarily or permanently stiffened finish. 

• Organza is a stiff sheer fabric made of filament yarns. 

• Voile, a soft fabric with somewhat lower fabric count and higher twist yarns, has a distinctive two-ply warp and ooddrapability. Medium- Weight Plain- Weave Fabrics. Medium weight balanced plain weaves usually have fairly high fabric counts, contain medium-weight yarns (12 to 29 tex), and are opaque. Distinguishing characteristics may be design, color, finish, or fabric count. 

1. Calico is a closely woven fabric with a small printed design. 

2. Chambray fabrics have colored warp yarns and white filling yarns that produce a heather appearance. Some contemporary chambrays may have warp and filling yarns of different colors. 

3. Chintz is a fabric printed with large designs that is often given a polished or glazed finish. Solid color glazed fabrics are called polished cotton. 

4. Gingham is a woven check or plaid design made with yarns of different colors. 

5. Muslin, generally woven from cotton or cotton blends, is made in both heavily sized, bleached qualities and in better grades for sheets and pillow cases. Muslin sheets are not combed and have a lower count (128 to 140 total yarns per inch) than do percale sheets. 

6. Percale, a closely woven, plain weave of cotton or blended fibers, is made from yarns of moderate twist. Percale yard goods are generally carded, but percale sheets are finer and more luxurious in feel and are made of combed yarns. 

Percale sheets have a count of 180 to 200 yarns (warp plus filling) per inch. 

Heavyweight Plain- Weave Fabrics. The following are common heavyweight plain weave fabrics. 

1. Butcher linen is a plain, stiff, white fabric made from heavy yarn. 

2. Crash is made from thick and thin yarns, giving the fabric a nubby look. 

3. Homespun is a furnishing fabric made with irregular yarns to resemble hand spun and hand-woven fabrics. 

4. Osnaburg is made of low-quality cotton for industrial use and in interior fabrics for curtains and upholstered furniture.

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The plain weave | Pattern Design to produce plain woven fabric

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Weave plan is the most popular topic of fabric structure and design in textile engineering courses. The manner in which groups of warp yarns are raised by the loom harnesses to permit the insertion of the filling yarn determines the pattern of the weave, and in large measure the kind of fabric produced. Weave patterns can create varying degrees of durability in fabrics, adding to their usefulness and also to their appearance. In a simple weave construction, consisting of the filling going under one warp and over the next, two harnesses are needed: one to lift the odd-numbered warp yarns, and econd to lift the even-numbered warp yarns. More than two harnesses are required for advanced weaves, and as many as forty for figured weaves. The three basic weaves in common use for the majority of fabrics are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, with some variations. Important constructions are also obtained from the following weaves: pile, double cloth, gauze, swivel, lappet, dobby, and Jacquard. 

The plain weave is the simplest of the weaves and the most common used to produce plain woven fabric. It consists of interlacing warp and filling yarns in a pattern of over one and under one. Imagine a small hand loom with the warp yarns held firmly in place. The filling yarn moves over the first warp yarn, under the second, over the third, under the fourth, and so on. In the next row, the filling yarn goes under the first warp yarn, over the second, under the third, and so on. In the third row, the filling moves over the first warp, under the second, and so on, just as it did in the first row. Plain 

Weave is the simplest and the most used weave.In a plain weave also called single weave, each warp yarn passes alternately over one and then under one filling yarn, for the whole length of the fabric. 

Characteristics of plain weave: 

• Plain weave fabrics are reversible unless some finish is given on one of the sides. 

• Fabrics made of this weave are inexpensive & easily produced. 

• Fabrics of this weave are durable. 

• Ex: Muslin, Organdy, Chiffon, Voile, Cambric etc. 

plain weave structure

The weave can be made with any type of yarn. Made with tightly twisted, single yarns that are placed close together both in the warp and filling, and with the same number of yarns in both directions, the resulting fabric will be a durable, simple, serviceable fabric. If, however, the warp were to be made from a single yarn and the filling from a colorful boucle yarn, a quite different, much more decorative fabric would result. Both are the product of the same, basic, plain weave. 

Plain-weave fabrics are constructed from many fibers and in weights ranging from light to heavy. Weaves may be balanced or unbalanced. Decorative effects can be achieved by using novelty yarns or yarns of different colors. Together with many of these novelty fabrics, a number of standard fabric types are made in the plain weave. In the past these standard fabrics were always constructed from specific fibers. At present suitable manufactured fibers are also woven into many of the standard fabric constructions.

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